Alpina 長方形腕錶:裝飾藝術風格傳承與完整指南

Alpina Rectangular Watches: Art Deco Heritage and Complete Guide

Table of Contents

    Alpina 是瑞士製錶史上最具傳奇色彩的品牌之一,卻也最少受到主流市場的關注。1883 年,Gottlieb Hauser 在溫特圖爾創立 Alpina,當時它是瑞士製錶師的合作組織。Alpina 以大膽理念為基礎:匯聚眾人之力,成就個別作品的品質。在接下來的數十年間,品牌從會員組織發展為瑞士技術創新最卓越的製錶商之一,聲譽遠播,產品從軍用時計到德國海軍時計,從全球首創的腕錶保固,到據稱為勞力士早期長方形長條鑲鑽腕錶打造的機芯。2002 年,Alpina 由 Frédérique Constant 的創辦人重新收購,並在不背離根源的前提下,重新進軍現代市場。

    與長方形的悠久淵源

    Alpina 與長方形腕錶的淵源,比大多數人所知的更深。1930 年代和 1940 年代,品牌推出了稜角分明的腕錶,展現裝飾藝術運動的巔峰風格。1938 年,Alpina 推出 Alpina 6,這是一款採用專利錶殼設計的長方形防水腕錶;不久後,又推出專為女性打造的長方形款式 Alpina 5。這些腕錶並非單純的裝飾品,而是實用、技術精良的作品,也是幾何學成為進步象徵的時代標誌。Alpina 6 設計理念的核心,是一枚後來聲名遠播的機芯:AL-490 手動上鍊長方形機芯,受瑞士第 158882 號專利保護,由 Alpina 集團早在 1921 年便著手開發,並於 1938 年推出市場。

    Alpina 與長方形腕錶:以裝飾藝術書寫的傳承

    Heritage Carrée 機械腕錶 140 週年 - 將歷史戴在腕間

    2023 年,為慶祝創立 140 週年,Alpina 成就了一件非凡之事:找到一批未曾佩戴、未曾使用的 AL-490 機芯,將其修復後,裝入兩款名為 Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years 的新腕錶中。每只腕錶均採用拋光銀色錶殼,尺寸為 29.5 mm × 35.7 mm,設計全新,而內部的機芯卻已等待了 85 年。每種錶盤款式僅限量 14 只,這些腕錶為 Alpina 的 1930 年代傳承與今日之間,建立了直接而具體的連結。錶盤採用靈感源自裝飾藝術風格的鐵道式分鐘刻度、符合年代風格的阿拉伯數字與舊版 Alpina 字體;銀色款還在 6 點鐘位置設有矩形小秒盤,呼應錶殼本身的結構。

    Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years - 為更多人而打造

    Alpina 明白,28 只腕錶無法滿足週年紀念所激起的期待,因此接著推出 Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years。這款腕錶以不鏽鋼打造,尺寸為 32.5 mm × 39 mm,搭載經改裝的 Sellita SW200 自動上鍊機芯,以更親民的價格,讓更多人感受 1930 年代原作的美學精神。錶殼保留了限量極少的姊妹款所具備的階梯式側面、幾何比例與裝飾藝術風格;扇形刻度錶盤搭配劍形指針與符合年代風格的數字,則再次證明這並非仿古作品,而是真正的致敬之作。黑色與銀色兩種錶盤選擇,呈現同一核心理念的不同樣貌:幾何腕錶工藝並非新鮮事物,而是一門根基深厚的學問。

    一個早於潮流洞悉先機的品牌

    Alpina 的方形腕錶歷史並非始於 2023 年,也不會止步於此。這是一個品牌的故事:在幾何造型蔚為風潮之前,它便已看見這種造型的魅力;在方形腕錶類別尚未有名稱之前,它便已為此打造機芯;而當世人終於準備好關注時,它又以忠於原始典藏的方式重返這個領域。

    如需完整的方形腕錶指南,請閱讀方形腕錶權威指南。

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