Table of Contents
This comprehensive wristwatch dictionary is your fast, reliable reference for decoding the language of horology. From case anatomy and crystals to movements, escapements, and complications, each definition is concise, accurate, and written to help you read spec sheets and reviews with confidence. You’ll also find essential de facto standards around water resistance, anti-magnetism, accuracy, and finishing so you can compare watches on more than just looks.
Beyond the technicals, we cover real-world ownership: Sales, Distribution & Buying terms, Smart & Connected features, Packaging & Carry, Photography & Display tips for clean watch shots, and the Forum Slang & Culture you keep seeing in comment threads. To round it out, there’s an alphabetical A–Z of 40ish foundational brands, each with a short profile and its most iconic models for quick orientation.
Bookmark this page; it’s updated as collections evolve and new terms enter the watch world.
If you’d like to suggest new terms or notice an error in any definition, please let us know at info@sonerwatches.com.
Case shapes & styles
- Round: Circular case shape, the industry default for legibility and sealing.
- Rectangular: Four-sided elongated case with right angles; classic dress form.
- Square: Equal-sided case with right angles; compact wrist presence.
- Tank: Rectangular case with parallel brancards inspired by Art Deco geometry.
- Tonneau: Barrel-shaped case with curved flanks and short lugs.
- Cushion: Rounded-square case with soft corners and broad bezel.
- Oval: Elliptical case with smooth, elongated symmetry.
- Octagonal: Eight-sided case often paired with an integrated bracelet.
- Dodecagonal: Twelve-sided case used for technical or tool-watch aesthetics.
- TV-screen: Wide rectangular case with softened corners evoking vintage TVs.
- Lozenge: Diamond-shaped case rotated on its point for a driver’s look.
- Coin-edge case: Fluted case band resembling a coin rim for added grip.
- Pilot case: Large, simple case with oversize crown for gloved use.
- Compressor case: Case that seals tighter as external pressure increases.
- Super-compressor: Dual-crown compressor case with internal rotating bezel.
- Monocoque: One-piece case loaded from the front for rigidity and sealing.
- Bullhead: Crown and pushers at the top of the case for motorsport timing.
- Driver’s watch: Case angled or rotated for easy reading while driving.
- Officer’s watch: Vintage military style with hinged or snap caseback.
- Trench watch: Early wristwatch with wire lugs and robust guards from WWI era.
- Doctor’s watch: Rectangular watch optimized for pulsometer readings.
- Dress watch: Slim, refined watch meant to disappear under a cuff.
- Field watch: Simple, legible, durable watch for outdoor duty.
- Diver: Water-resistant watch with timing bezel and strong lume.
- Flieger Type A: Pilot dial with simple triangle at 12 and minutes track.
- Flieger Type B: Pilot dial with outer minutes and inner hours scale.
- Racing chronograph: High-contrast stopwatch watch for motorsport timing.
- Yacht timer: Regatta countdown watch with colored segments or discs.
- Marine: Nautical chronometer-inspired design with railroad tracks and Roman numerals.
- Skeleton: Case/dial opened to reveal the movement architecture.
- Openworked: Bridges and plates pared back to showcase mechanics.
- Reversible case: Case that flips to protect the crystal or display another face.
Case components & exterior parts
- Mid-case: Central body holding movement, bezel, and caseback together.
- Bezel: Ring surrounding the crystal; can be decorative or functional.
- Bezel insert: Material ring seated in a bezel bearing scales or color.
- Crystal: Transparent cover over the dial protecting against dust and hits.
- Caseback: Rear cover sealing the movement side of the case.
- Display back / Exhibition back: Caseback with a window to view the movement.
- Snap-back: Caseback pressed into place with friction fit.
- Screw-back: Caseback threaded for better water resistance and serviceability.
- Gasket: Elastic seal preventing moisture and dust ingress.
- Crown: Knob used to wind, set, and adjust functions.
- Tube: Threaded sleeve the crown screws onto, housing its gasket.
- Crown guards: Projections protecting the crown from impacts.
- Pusher: Button that actuates chronograph or other functions.
- Corrector: Recessed pusher for quick setting of date or calendar.
- Helium escape valve: Pressure-relief device for saturation diving.
- End links: Metal end pieces connecting bracelet to lugs.
- Solid end links (SEL): Rigid, machined end links for tighter fit.
- Spring bars: Spring-loaded bars that secure strap or bracelet to lugs.
- Screw bars: Solid bars with screws for heavy-duty attachment.
- Drilled lugs: Lug holes that allow tool access from the outside.
- Hooded lugs: Lugs partially covered by case metal for a tidy look.
- Wire lugs: Early fixed-wire attachments for straps.
- Integrated lugs: Lugs blended into case/bracelet with proprietary fit.
- Shroud: Protective outer shell around the case for impact resistance.
Dimensions & fit
- Case diameter / Width: Side-to-side size excluding the crown.
- Length / Lug-to-lug: End-to-end span across the lugs affecting overhang.
- Lug width / Interhorn: Gap between lugs that determines strap size.
- Thickness / Case height: Crystal-to-back depth influencing cuff fit.
- Curvature / Camber: Case or crystal arch that hugs the wrist.
- Overhang: Lugs extending beyond wrist edges causing poor fit.
- Endlink drop: Bracelet’s first link articulation that shortens effective span.
- Taper: Strap or bracelet narrowing toward the clasp for comfort.
- Clasp span: Closed-clasp length that affects centered fit.
- Effective length: Real wearable length once curvature is considered.
- Weight / Center of gravity: Mass and balance that affect comfort and roll.
Dials & textures
- Dial: Face of the watch carrying markers, scales, and apertures.
- Rehaut / Flange: Inner wall between dial and crystal, often bearing scales.
- Chapter ring: Ring with minute or seconds markings around the dial.
- Chemin de fer: Railroad-style minute track with parallel lines and ticks.
- Sector dial: Dial divided into concentric or radial zones for clarity.
- California dial: Mixed Roman numerals (top) and Arabic numerals (bottom).
- Pie-pan: Dial sloping down at the edge like an inverted plate.
- Sandwich dial: Two-layer dial with cutouts revealing lume beneath.
- Fumé / Dégradé: Gradient dial darkening toward the edges.
- Sunburst / Sunray: Radial brushed texture that catches light in spokes.
- Brushed / Matte / Glossy: Surface finishes controlling reflection and contrast.
- Lacquer: Polished, layered paint finish with depth and sheen.
- Enamel / Grand feu: Fired glass surface with luminous, durable color.
- Champlevé / Cloisonné: Enamel techniques using recessed cells or wire partitions.
- Porcelain: Fired ceramic dial with milky white gloss.
- Opaline: Silky, low-gloss finish with fine grain.
- Guilloché / Engine-turning: Mechanical engraving in repeating patterns.
- Clous de Paris / Hobnail: Small pyramid guilloché pattern.
- Barleycorn: Elongated, grain-like guilloché motif.
- Tapisserie: Repeating squares pattern associated with luxury sports watches.
- Linen: Fine cross-hatch texture resembling woven fabric.
- Frosted / Sandblasted / Grained: Micro-textured finishes that diffuse light.
- Meteorite / Aventurine / MOP / Stone: Natural materials used for visual drama.
- Skeletonized dial: Cut-out face exposing parts of the movement.
- Aperture: Window showing date, day, or other indications.
- Open-heart: Window that exposes the balance area on the dial.
- Big date / Panorama date: Oversized date display using two discs.
Hour markers & scales
- Applied markers: Separate metal markers affixed to the dial.
- Printed markers: Flat inked indices directly on the dial.
- Arabic numerals: 1–12 numerals for high legibility.
- Roman numerals: Classic I–XII layout for dressy style.
- Breguet numerals: Curly, calligraphic Arabic numerals.
- Baton / Stick / Dagger: Simple linear markers of varying sharpness.
- Diamond markers: Gem-set indices for sparkle.
- Railway minute track: Precise track aiding minute reading.
- Pulsometer: Scale to measure heart rate over a set beats count.
- Tachymeter: Scale converting elapsed time to speed over distance.
- Telemeter: Scale reading distance from time delay of sound.
- Decimal scale: Scale dividing minutes into decimal fractions.
- Yacht countdown scale: Colored segments for 5-minute regatta starts.
- Slide-rule / Logarithmic scale: Circular calculator for aviation math.
- Regatta discs: Rotating windows showing pre-race countdown.
Hands
- Hour / Minute / Seconds hand: Primary time-telling pointers.
- Small seconds / Sub-seconds: Seconds shown on a subdial.
- Running seconds: Continuous seconds indication for movement health.
- Dauphine / Alpha / Feuille: Faceted or leaf-shaped dress hands.
- Sword / Baton / Stick / Pencil: Straight, utilitarian hand styles.
- Syringe: Tapered hand with a needle-like tip.
- Cathedral: Segmented, stained-glass-style hands for vintage pilots.
- Breguet hands: Hollow “pomme” tips with elegant curves.
- Lance / Arrow: Pointed, aggressive shapes for sport models.
- Lollipop: Seconds hand with a round luminous dot.
- Spade: Broad club-like tip for classic designs.
- Snowflake: Angular, blocky hands with large lume area.
- Mercedes: Three-spoke hour hand emblem favored on divers.
- Skeletonized hands: Cut-out hands to reduce mass and show dial below.
- Heat-blued / Thermally blued: Steel hands heated to a stable blue oxide.
- Foudroyante hand: Hand indicating fractions of a second on a subdial.
Lume & night visibility
- Luminescent compound: Material that glows after light exposure.
- Lume plots: Luminous areas on markers or hands.
- Lume pip: Dot of lume at bezel zero for timing in the dark.
- Full-lume dial: Entire dial coated for maximum night visibility.
- Sandwich lume: Lume applied on a lower layer shining through cutouts.
- Super-LumiNova / X1: Modern non-radioactive lume grades with high output.
- Tritium / T25 / T100: Radioactive gas tubes or paint providing constant glow.
- GTLS / Tritium tubes: Sealed glass tubes with tritium for long-term glow.
- Radium (historic): Early radioactive lume now discontinued for safety.
- Patina / Fauxtina: Aged or intentionally vintage-colored lume.
- Afterglow / Charge time: Duration and speed of lume brightness after charging.
Crystals & glass
- Sapphire crystal: Hard, scratch-resistant synthetic corundum.
- Boxed / High-domed / Double-domed sapphire: Shaped sapphires reducing distortion and glare.
- Mineral crystal: Tempered glass with moderate scratch resistance.
- Hardened mineral: Chemically strengthened mineral glass.
- Acrylic / Plexiglass / Hesalite: Soft, warm-looking plastic crystal that polishes easily.
- Anti-reflective coating (AR): Thin film reducing reflections; inner or double-sided.
- Beveled / Stepped crystal: Edged or tiered crystal for vintage character.
Bezels
- Fixed bezel: Stationary ring for protection or design.
- Rotating bezel: Turnable ring used for timing or navigation.
- Unidirectional: One-way rotation to prevent accidental over-timing underwater.
- Bidirectional: Free or ratcheted rotation in both directions.
- Internal bezel: Scale under the crystal adjusted by a crown.
- Friction bezel: Smooth, click-less rotation by friction.
- Ratcheting bezel: Indexed clicks for precise setting.
- Timing / GMT / 24-hour / Compass / Countdown: Common bezel scales.
- Regatta bezel: Colored countdown segments for race starts.
- Slide-rule bezel: Circular calculator for conversions.
- Fluted / Coin-edge / Smooth: Common decorative or grip patterns.
- Ceramic / Sapphire / Aluminum / Steel / Bakelite insert: Materials and durability.
- Ghost bezel: Naturally faded insert prized by collectors.
Crowns, pushers & correctors
- Push-pull crown: Simple stem seal for daily use.
- Screw-down crown: Threaded crown increasing water resistance.
- Onion / Conical / Recessed / Signed crown: Crown shapes or branding details.
- Crown tube: Fixed sleeve the crown engages with.
- Mono-pusher: Single button operating all chronograph functions.
- Pump / Mushroom pushers: Vintage-style chronograph buttons.
- Screw-down pushers: Threaded buttons to prevent accidental activation.
- Corrector pusher: Tiny case button for date or calendar quickset.
Straps, bracelets & end-links
- Two-piece / One-piece strap: Standard separate halves or single pass-through.
- NATO / Zulu / RAF: Nylon pass-through straps with varying hardware.
- Bund / Cuff: Leather pad under the case for comfort and style.
- Curved-end / Straight-end: Strap end shaped to match or sit near the case.
- Quick-release: Built-in spring bar tabs for tool-less swaps.
- Leather types: Calf, full-grain, nubuck, suede, shell cordovan, exotic hides.
- Fabric types: Canvas, perlon, sailcloth.
- Rubber types: FKM, silicone, fluoroelastomer.
- Tropic / Waffle / Isofrane: Classic perforated or ribbed rubber patterns.
- Mesh / Milanese / Shark mesh: Interlinked metal strands forming a draping bracelet.
- Beads-of-rice / Jubilee / Oyster / President / H-link / Engineer / Ladder / Bonklip: Bracelet architectures.
- Riveted / Folded / Solid link: Bracelet construction methods.
- Fitted / Straight endlink: Endlinks shaped to case or straight.
- Half-links / Micro-adjust: Fine sizing via smaller links or clasp holes.
- Diver’s extension / On-the-fly adjust: Extra clasp length features.
Buckles & clasps
- Tang / Ardillon / Thumbnail / Pin / Prong: Simple pin-through-hole closures.
- Deployant / Single-fold / Double-fold / Butterfly: Hinged metal closures that protect strap holes.
- Friction / Push-button / Safety / Flip-lock / Hidden: Retention and security styles.
- Ratcheting clasp / Glide-style adjustment: Tool-less micro-sizing within the clasp.
- Jewelry clasp / Seat-belt clasp: Slim or snap-style closures.
Movement types & power sources
- Mechanical: Spring-powered movement regulated by an escapement.
- Manual-wind / Hand-wind: Wound by turning the crown; no rotor.
- Automatic / Self-winding: Rotor winds the mainspring with wrist motion.
- Bidirectional / Unidirectional winding: Rotor winds in both directions or one.
- Micro-rotor / Peripheral rotor: Compact or rim-mounted rotors.
- Bumper automatic: Early rotor design that rebounds off springs.
- Quartz: Battery-powered movement regulated by a quartz crystal.
- Thermo-compensated quartz / HAQ: Temperature correction for higher accuracy.
- Solar quartz: Light-charged accumulator powering quartz.
- Kinetic: Rotor charges a capacitor for quartz regulation.
- Mechaquartz: Quartz base with mechanical chronograph module.
- Tuning-fork: Electromechanical movement vibrating a fork.
- Spring-Drive-type hybrid: Mechanical energy with electronic regulation.
- Radio-controlled / GPS-synchronized: Time set by broadcast or satellite signals.
- Smart-hybrid: Analog hands with sensors and phone connectivity.
Movement architecture & key parts
- Mainplate / Bridges / Cock: Structural plates holding the gear train and organs.
- Barrel / Mainspring / Arbor: Power storage drum, coiled spring, and central axle.
- Ratchet wheel / Crown wheel / Click: Winding gear train and pawl preventing unwinding.
- Center / Third / Fourth / Escape wheel: Wheels transmitting power to the escapement.
- Cannon pinion / Minute wheel / Hour wheel: Motion works driving hands.
- Keyless works: Setting and winding mechanism linked to the crown.
- Stem / Sliding pinion / Yoke / Setting lever: Parts engaging wind or set modes.
- Clutch: Coupler that connects or disconnects gear trains.
- Hacking lever / Stop-seconds: Device that halts the seconds for precise setting.
- Detent: Spring or pawl securing positions in mechanisms.
- Pallet fork / Impulse jewel: Escapement parts transferring impulses to the balance.
- Jewels / Cap jewel: Synthetic rubies reducing friction and wear.
- Shock spring: Spring device protecting balance pivots from impacts.
- Balance bridge / Wheel / Staff: Oscillator support, rim, and axle.
- Hairspring / Overcoil / Flat: Balance spring types.
Escapements & regulation
- Swiss lever escapement: Industry-standard escapement.
- Co-axial escapement: Reduced-friction escapement using radial impulses.
- Detent / Chronometer detent: High-precision escapement with minimal interference.
- Duplex / Cylinder / Pin-pallet: Historic escapements.
- Deadbeat seconds mechanism: Seconds hand jumps in one-second steps.
- Remontoir d’égalité: Secondary spring delivering constant torque.
- Fusée-and-chain: Cone and chain equalizing mainspring torque.
- Constant-force device: Any mechanism stabilizing torque.
- Free-sprung / Variable-inertia balance: Rate adjusted by mass on the balance.
- Regulator index / Swan-neck: Fine adjustment of effective hairspring length.
- Microstella / Regulating weights: Balance screws or masses for rate tuning.
- Etachron: Adjustable regulator system.
- Beat error / Amplitude / Frequency / VPH / BPH: Core timing parameters.
Complications: timekeeping & displays
- Small / Central / Deadbeat seconds: Variants of seconds display.
- Power-reserve indicator: Readout of remaining running time.
- Retrograde: Hand that snaps back to zero.
- Jumping hours: Digital hour display that flips at the top of the hour.
- Wandering hours: Hours indicated by rotating satellites.
- Regulator display: Separated hour, minute, and seconds axes.
- 24-hour display: Full day on one rotation.
- Dual time / GMT / Multi-time-zone: Additional time zone indications.
- World time / City ring: Global time with cities on a 24-hour ring.
- Day-night indicator: AM/PM visualization.
- Alarm: On-wrist acoustic alert.
Complications: calendar & astronomical
- Date / Quickset / Semi-quickset: Basic calendar with direct or partial fast-set.
- Pointer date: Hand indicates date around the dial perimeter.
- Big date / Panorama date: Oversized date using two discs.
- Day-date: Displays both day and date.
- Triple / Complete calendar: Day, date, month with moonphase.
- Annual calendar: Corrects for 30/31-day months.
- Perpetual calendar: Accounts for leap years.
- Leap-year indicator: Shows the current year in the 4-year cycle.
- Moonphase: Graphic of lunar cycle.
- Equation of time: Difference between solar and mean time.
- Sunrise / Sunset / Tide / Zodiac: Astronomical indications.
Complications: chronograph & timing
- Chronograph: On-demand stopwatch with start/stop/reset.
- Monopusher / Two-register / Three-register: Button count or layouts.
- Flyback: Reset and restart with one press.
- Rattrapante / Split-seconds: Second hand to record intermediate times.
- Foudroyante: Fraction-of-a-second indicator.
- 1/10-sec / 1/100-sec: High-frequency chronographs.
- Central minutes / Central seconds: Chronograph hands mounted centrally.
- Column wheel / Cam-actuated: Mechanisms that control function feel.
- Horizontal / Vertical clutch: Engagement systems.
- Brake lever / Reset hammer / Heart cam: Parts that stop and zero.
- Tachymeter / Telemeter / Pulsometer / Decimal: Timing scales.
Complications: chiming & acoustic
- Minute / Quarter / Five-minute / Decimal repeater: Chime elapsed time intervals on demand.
- Grande / Petite sonnerie: Automatic striking of hours and quarters.
- Carillon: Repeater with three or more gongs.
- Cathedral gongs: Extra-long gongs for resonance.
- Governor: Regulator that controls striking speed.
- Strike-work: Mechanism dedicated to chiming functions.
- Silence slider: Selector to disable or enable striking.
Finishing & decoration
- Côtes de Genève / Stripes: Parallel wave graining.
- Perlage / Circular graining / Snailing: Swirled or spiral textures.
- Straight graining / Satin brushing: Linear texture reducing glare.
- Frosting: Matte finish by bead-blasting or acid treatment.
- Black polishing / Specular: Mirror finish appearing black at angles.
- Anglage / Beveling: Chamfering and polishing of bridge edges.
- Inward / Outward angles: Hand-finished corners.
- Sunray brushing / Satin / Blasted: Case surface treatments.
- Heat-blued screws: Thermally colored screws.
- Gilding / Rhodium / NAC / Anthracite: Plated or treated colors.
- Skeletonization / Hand-engraving: Material removal or ornamental carving.
Materials & alloys
- 316L / 904L steel: Corrosion-resistant stainless steels.
- Hardened steel: Surface-treated steel with increased scratch resistance.
- Titanium Grade 2/5: Lightweight pure or alloyed titanium.
- Bronze / Brass / Copper: Warm-toned metals that develop patina.
- Tantalum / Tungsten: Dense, hard exotic metals.
- Ceramic / Zirconium: Scratch-proof, lightweight case materials.
- Forged carbon / Carbon fiber: Composite materials.
- Sapphire / Mineral / Acrylic: Crystal materials.
- Aluminum / Bakelite (historic): Light or vintage insert materials.
- Gold (yellow/rose/red/pink/white/green): Precious metal alloys.
- Platinum / Palladium / Rhodium: Noble metals.
- Vermeil / Gold-filled / Gold-plated: Layered gold techniques.
- PVD / DLC / ADLC: Thin, hard coatings for color and wear resistance.
- Damascus / Mokume-gane: Patterned metal laminations.
- Meteorite / MOP / Aventurine / Stone: Natural dial materials.
Coatings & treatments
- PVD / CVD: Vacuum-deposited coatings for color and protection.
- DLC / ADLC: Diamond-like carbon coatings.
- Nitriding / Carburizing: Surface hardening.
- Brushing / Polishing / Sunray: Mechanical finishing styles.
- Bead-blast / Sandblast / Frost: Matte texturing methods.
- Galvanic treatment / Lacquer / Clear coat: Plating or protective finishes.
- AR coating / Double AR / Tinted AR: Anti-reflection layers.
Water resistance & diving
- WR rating / Meters / Feet / ATM / Bar: Depth ratings.
- ISO 22810 / ISO 6425: General water-resistance and diver standards.
- Screw-down crown / Pushers / Caseback gasket / Crown gasket: Key sealing components.
- Pressure / Vacuum / Condensation tests: Methods to verify sealing.
- Helium ingress / Saturation diving / HEV: Gas management in deep diving.
- Diver’s extension / Unidirectional bezel / Lume pip: Practical dive features.
- Decompression scale: Guide for staged ascent.
Anti-magnetism & shock
- Anti-magnetic / ISO 764: Resistance to magnetic fields.
- Soft-iron / Faraday cage: Inner shell that redirects magnetic flux.
- Silicon / Paramagnetic hairspring: Springs immune to magnetism.
- Gauss rating: Field strength a watch can withstand.
- Shock protection: Systems protecting balance pivots.
- Drop test / ISO 1413: Impact-resistance standards.
Accuracy, rates & timing
- Rate / Daily rate / Average rate: Gain or loss over time.
- Positional variance: Rate change across positions.
- Isochronism: Consistency over the power reserve.
- Amplitude: Balance swing in degrees.
- Beat error: Asymmetry between tick and tock.
- Timing machine / Timegrapher: Instrument measuring rate, amplitude, beat error.
- Hi-beat / 18k / 21.6k / 28.8k: Common frequencies.
- Regulation / Fine adjustment: Tuning to meet target accuracy.
Certification & seals
- Chronometer / COSC: Swiss certification for accuracy.
- METAS Master Chronometer: Tests for accuracy, magnetism, waterproofing.
- Observatoire chronometer (historic): Observatory trials.
- Qualité Fleurier: Independent quality and finishing standard.
- Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal): Hallmark of finishing and origin for Geneva.
- Besançon Viper’s Head: French observatory hallmark.
- Superlative Chronometer: Brand-specific enhanced accuracy standard.
- DIN 8330: German pilot watch performance standard.
Styles, eras & design language
- Art Deco / Bauhaus / Mid-century: Historic design movements.
- Military / Field / Tool: Function-first aesthetics.
- Dress / Sports / Integrated-bracelet / Luxury sports: Core contexts.
- Minimalism / Maximalism: Restraint or exuberance.
- Sector design / Sector hands: Radial segmentation and matching hand style.
- Pilot Type A / Type B: Classic dial layouts.
Manufacturing & methods
- Ébauche: Incomplete movement supplied for finishing and casing.
- In-house movement / Manufacture: Movement designed and built by the brand.
- Établisseur: Company casing third-party movements and parts.
- Modular movement / Base caliber / Piggyback: Add-on modules on a base.
- CNC machining / Stamping / Forging / Casting / Sintering: Part-making methods.
- Soldering / Brazing / Laser welding / Electroforming: Joining and forming.
- Rose-engine / Pantograph: Traditional guilloché and scale-copying machines.
- Galvanic plating / CVD coating: Surface finishing by deposition.
- Case hardening / Tolerances: Surface strengthening and precision control.
- Hand-finishing / Assembly / Regulation / QC / Pressure testing: Final steps.
Tools, maintenance & service
- Case knife / Opener / Friction ball: Remove snap or screw backs.
- Spring-bar tool / Pin pusher / Screwdrivers: Strap and bracelet sizing tools.
- Movement holder / Loupe / Blower / Rodico: Clean handling tools.
- Timing machine / Demagnetizer / Cleaning machine / Ultrasonic: Diagnostic and cleaning equipment.
- Pressure tester: Verify water resistance.
- Watch press / Polishing cloth / Cape Cod / Polywatch: Refitting and light refinishing.
- Relume / Gasket replacement / Overhaul / Lubrication / Mainspring replacement / Regulation / Refinishing: Common service tasks.
Collecting, condition & provenance
- Reference / Model / Serial number: Identifiers.
- Production run / Limited / Numbered / Special / Boutique edition: Availability.
- Prototype: Pre-production sample.
- NOS: Old stock never retailed.
- Full set / Box and papers / Open papers: Completeness levels.
- Provenance / Extract from archives: Documented origin and history.
- Patina / Tropical / Spider / Crazing: Aging effects.
- Ghost bezel / Service dial: Faded inserts or replaced parts.
- Relumed / Redial / Frankenwatch / Mod / Homage / Counterfeit / Superclone: Alteration spectrum.
- Gray market / Authorized dealer / Boutique / MSRP / Street price: Sales channels and pricing.
- Depreciation / Appreciation / Grail / Beater / Strap monster / Safe queen / Barn find: Collector slang.
- Auction estimate / Hammer price: Valuation and final sale price.
- Authentication / Appraisal / Insurance / Import duty / VAT / Customs: Trust, protection, taxes.
Digital, quartz & hybrid tech
- Quartz oscillator / Stepping motor / Integrated circuit: Core parts that drive quartz hands.
- Trimmer capacitor: Fine accuracy tuning.
- Thermo-compensation / HAQ: Temperature correction.
- Perpetual calendar quartz: Auto-tracks months and leap years.
- Radio-sync / Atomic time signal: Terrestrial broadcasts.
- GPS sync: Satellite time and sometimes location.
- Bluetooth sync: Phone-assisted time set and control.
- Tuning fork / Hum / 32 kHz / 262 kHz: Quartz frequencies.
- Solar charging / Accumulator: Light-powered storage cell.
- Power-save mode / End-of-life seconds jump: Energy-saving and low-battery alert.
Sales, distribution & buying
- Authorized dealer (AD): Brand-approved retailer with factory warranty.
- Boutique: Store owned or operated by the brand.
- Retailer / Reseller: May not be brand-authorized.
- Grey market: New watches sold outside authorized channels.
- Parallel import: Genuine products via non-official routes.
- Allocation: Controlled distribution of in-demand models.
- Waitlist: Queue for limited or high-demand pieces.
- Preorder / Deposit: Pay in advance to secure delivery.
- MSRP / List price: Suggested price before discounts or premiums.
- Street price: Real-world price after discounts or scarcity.
- Secondary market: Used or unworn watches traded.
- Box and papers (B&P): Original packaging and documentation.
- Full set: All original accessories and warranty card.
- Open papers: Unstamped or undated warranty card.
- NOS (new old stock): Vintage stock never sold to an end customer.
- Extract from archives: Brand-issued historical confirmation.
- Provenance: Documented chain of ownership.
- Authentication: Expert verification of originality.
- Appraisal: Formal valuation.
- Grey premium / Over retail: Prices above MSRP.
- Discount / Under retail: Prices below MSRP.
- Warranty / Extended warranty: Coverage terms.
- Service center: Authorized repair facility.
- RMA / Returns: Seller’s return or service process.
- Import duty / VAT / Customs: Taxes and fees at border entry.
- Trade-in: Exchange toward another purchase.
- Consignment: Dealer sells on your behalf.
- Flipping: Rapid resale for profit.
Smart & connected
- Smartwatch: Connected wrist device with apps, sensors, notifications.
- Hybrid smartwatch: Analog hands with sensors and limited connectivity.
- Complication (digital): Small data module on a watch face.
- Heart-rate / SpO₂ / ECG sensors: Bio-sensors for fitness and health.
- GNSS / GPS: Satellite positioning.
- Accelerometer / Gyroscope: Motion sensors.
- LTE / eSIM: Cellular connectivity without a phone.
- Bluetooth / Wi-Fi / NFC: Wireless links.
- Battery life / Power save: Runtime and extending modes.
- Fast charge: Higher-watt charging.
- Water rating (IP / ATM): Ingress protection or depth rating.
- Always-on display (AOD): Low-refresh state to keep time visible.
- LTPO / OLED / LCD: Display technologies.
- Haptic feedback: Vibration cues.
- Digital crown / Bezel: Rotating input controls.
- WatchOS / Wear OS / Proprietary OS: Software platforms.
- Companion app: Settings, faces, firmware updates.
- MIL-STD-810: Durability testing.
- Contactless pay: NFC payments.
- Offline music / maps: On-device storage.
- Safety features: Fall detection, SOS, incident alerts.
Packaging & carry
- Watch box: Presentation case for storage and resale completeness.
- Outer box / sleeve: Protective cardboard layer.
- Cushion / Pillow: Insert that supports the watch.
- Hangtag: Tag with reference and price details.
- Warranty booklet / Card: Proof of coverage and purchase.
- Protective films / Stickers: Prevent scratches before sale.
- Travel case / Watch roll / Pouch / Tube: Carry options.
- Valet tray / Display stand: Presentation and daily carry.
- Watch winder: Keeps automatics wound.
- Foam insert / Divider: Protective internal parts.
- Strap tool: Tool for changing straps or sizing bracelets.
Forum slang & culture
- WRUW: “What are you wearing?”
- SOTC: “State of the collection.”
- NWA / NWD: “New watch alert / day.”
- FS / FSOT / WTT: For sale, for sale or trade, want to trade.
- BNIB / LNIB: Brand new in box; like new in box.
- F&F / PP G&S: PayPal Friends & Family; Goods & Services.
- Grail / Beater / Strap monster / GADA: Common slang.
- Panda / Reverse panda: White dial with black subdials, or inverse.
- Ghost bezel / Tropical dial / Fauxtina: Aging and styling terms.
- Honeymoon phase / WIS / AD games: Enthusiast culture.
- Alignment / QC / Desk diving: Wear and quality topics.
- Enabler: Someone who pushes a buy.
40 famous brands and their iconic models
This A–Z section distills 40 foundational watch brands into quick, useful snapshots. Each entry gives a short profile and its most iconic models. The list is alphabetical, not a ranking. We’ll refresh entries as collections evolve.
A. Lange & Söhne
A. Lange & Söhne revives Saxon high watchmaking with sculptural movements and relentless finishing. The Lange 1’s asymmetric dial and outsized date became an instant classic, while Datograph redefined modern chronographs. Three-quarter plates and hand-engraved balance cocks are signatures. The design is sober, technical, and deeply crafted rather than flashy.
Iconic models: Lange 1, Datograph, Zeitwerk.
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet fused haute watchmaking with audacious design via the Royal Oak. Its octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet reframed luxury in steel, while the Offshore amplified scale and attitude. AP also excels in skeletonization, high complications, and finishing depth. The identity sits at the intersection of craft, architectural geometry, and sport-luxury swagger.
Iconic models: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore.
Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier focuses on elegant, accessibly priced Swiss watchmaking. Riviera revives a 12-sided sports case; Clifton and Classima serve classic dress needs. Balanced proportions and daily comfort define the catalog.
Iconic models: Riviera, Clifton Baumatic, Classima.
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross turns cockpit instruments into bold, square-cased watches. BR 01 and BR 03 evoke dashboard legibility; Vintage rounds the language for daily use. High-contrast dials, oversized numerals, and visible screws define the look.
Iconic models: BR 01, BR 03, Vintage.
-------------------------------
If you’d like to suggest new terms or notice an error in any definition, please email info@sonerwatches.com.